Designer, Ryuhei Oomaru, manipulates the patternmaking process to create unisex silhouettes that highlight the fact that all body types are unique. The structured and tailored aspect of each garment starts with a pattern that allows the fabric to drape so that it contours to different shoulder slopes while simultaneously pursuing comfort in the most minimal form. Tailoring and patternmaking techniques remain core to all pieces this season, while new fabrics, silhouettes, and details have been introduced for adaptability as we collectively transition to a new lifestyle.
• The Dolman Sleeve Coat
A short coat is an update to the dolman sleeve construction (large tuck at the center back that expands and contracts depending on the wearer’s shoulder width and slope). One seamless pattern that connects the front, back and sleeve, with a zipper at the center front for a more casual look.
• The Dolman Sleeve Hoodie
A packable dolman sleeve hoodie incorporates unique patternmaking techniques to avoid making the garment too casual. The front and sleeve are connected and continues to the back seam creating a cape-like drape around the shoulder. The center front is curved which creates a drape around the front of the neck.
• The Cape Shoulder
Introduced in Fall 2019, the pattern is one continuous rectangular piece, thus when wrapped around the shoulder, creates a roomy cape-like drape. This has been updated to include a short sleeve version for Spring 2021.
• Double Breasted Jacket
In OVERCOAT’s interpretation of the double-breasted jacket, the back armhole is patterned to create extra drape for the wearers comfort. All interior construction except for a light sleeve head has been eliminated to give it a cardigan-like feel.
• Tailored Shorts
The tailored shorts have a relaxed but straight clean cut. The back waistband is partially elasticated to give the wearer extra comfort.
• Wide Leg Trouser
The wide leg trouser is high waisted with no side seam but only an inseam allowing for a clean wide leg finish.
Ryuhei pays special attention to the selection of fabrics, focusing on utility and comfort. Fabrics of the season include French linen in a high-density weave to provide a smooth texture to the touch. Turpan cotton, which is a superior cotton with a crisp hand-feel with unique properties including fineness, strength and smoothness. Rayon tricotine which is a tightly twisted yarn - the fabric surface is textured with diagonal rows of twills, giving the it a perfect balance of drape and structure. Wool shirting and tropical wool have been adapted in order to be machine washable. The color palette centers around the fusion of neutrals and neons - such as white, black and beige paired with bright innerwear and pieces from the Peter Miles Studio collaboration.
Peter Miles Studio Collaboration
Art Director Peter Miles created a handmade anti digital print as a part of an ongoing series which serves as a focal point for the Spring 2021 collection. Two types of fabrics were created for the Peter Miles Studio collaboration – super lightweight matte nylon and cupro. On the nylon, the artwork was printed with a technique called the “Monalisa” print, an advanced technology using a variety of 17 million colors, enabling a realistic interpretation of Peter’s artwork. Cupro is a sustainable fabric that is made from recycled cotton linter and is biodegradable. It is hypoallergenic and very smooth against the skin, but also very durable. The collaboration itself stemmed from years of working on various projects together and OVERCOAT’s great respect for his work.
OVERCOAT Spring/Summer 2021
Spring/Summer 2021 Collection
- Office Solutions
- Julius Frazer
- Jonathan Blair
Hair and Make-Up
- Tomomi Shibusawa for Shiseido
- Joseph Charles Viola
- Komatsu Matere Co., Ltd.
- Nakaden Keori Co., Ltd.
- Design Works 1965 Tokyo Ltd.