OVERCOAT Spring Summer 2023
OVERCOAT Designer, Ryuhei Oomaru, manipulates the patternmaking process to create unisex silhouettes that highlight the fact that all body types are unique. The structured and tailored aspect of each garment starts with a pattern that allows the fabric to drape so that it contours to different shoulder slopes while simultaneously pursuing comfort in the most minimal form.
This season Oomaru focused on the ease of relaxed tailoring with oversized silhouettes and jumpsuit styles as well as soft textured fabrics. Tailoring remains at the core of the collection but with a playfulness and new propositions for how tailoring can be worn in a more laid back context with the idea of people going out and “coming together”.
• Darted Dolman Sleeve Overcoat
A classic tailored overcoat constructed with dolman sleeves and darts at the shoulder to create a pleat in the back, allowing for more movement through the shoulder and body. This style is constructed in a heavier wool serge as well as a water repellent bonded polyester fabric with taped seams.
• Dolman Sleeve Blouson
The relaxed fit Doman Sleeve Blouson introduced as a puffer style last Fall is reinterpreted into a light weight jacket without padding for the Spring. The Dolman sleeve and hem finishing creates a rounded cocoon like silhouette.
• Cargo Pant
The workwear cargo pant is reimagined as an elegant tailored trouser where the cargo pockets are cut from the top layer of fabric as opposed to being sewn on top as a patch pocket style. The end result is a seamless pocket finish that lays flat against the trouser leg.
• Tailored Jumpsuit
An organic cotton short sleeve shirt and wool shorts are combined at the waist to create a jumpsuit, looking like tailored separates at first glance.
• Cotton Terry Pile Shorts and Playsuit
A cotton terry pile fabric is constructed into a tailored shirt, short and playsuit. The shirt is purposely designed to have an oversized silhouette, allowing it to be worn more like a jacket. The shorts have side tabs and elasticated back waist band for comfort. This shirt and shorts are combined into one in the playsuit style.
• Collarless Single Breasted Jacket
A new collarless single breasted jacket with one button closure at the front has no lapels but instead, a very thin binding collar finish, creating a minimal modern look.
• Raglan Sleeve Blouson with Stand Collar
This blouson jacket is constructed with a raglan sleeve pattern that goes across the shoulder to the center seam, creating a graphic inverted V-shape pattern, accentuated by the use of contrast colors and patterns.
• Pullover Top with Spread Collar
A new shirt style, a pullover top with spread collar is introduced this season with a covered button placket in wool shirting, both in solid colors and contrast color combination.
• Cotton Pique Novelty Polo Shirt
This polo shirt combines the cut and sew style construction in the body and sleeves with the fully fashioned knitwear details on the collars, sleeve cuffs and hem. The open knit pique has a light airy feel.
The fabrics this season include light-weight suiting and playful textures. The heavier wool serge fabric gives structure to coats and jackets while the bonded polyester with taped seams and water repellent qualities are used in raincoat styles. Light weight wool, tropical wool, wool/cotton herringbone, wool/polyester houndstooth and linen are used in tailored jackets, trousers, shorts and shirting. A rayon tricotine fabric and textured cotton terry pile fabric give a more sporty relaxed tailored look. Shirting can be found in both wool and cotton with lightweight open knit cotton polos.
The collection focuses on earth tones such as military green, moss green, gold, navy and white. Patterns include herringbone, houndstooth, and stripes
Spring/Summer 2023 Collection
Download the Press kit for Designer XDownload presskit
- Stanislaw Boniecki
- Barbara Pfister
Hair and Make-Up
- Sena Murahashi
- Ibby / The Society
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